то, кто знает свою географию, понимает свою политику

Things have been happening around here lately. I've been meeting more people and have generally been much busier than in the previous weeks. A lot of the new people I've met are Peace Corp Volunteers, though only one of them actually lives in Simferopol and she's leaving for good this weekend. Her name's Alison, and Maria put me in touch with her because I was looking to buy a guitar and Alison was looking to sell hers. She actually brought it with her from the US, so it isn't some cheap Russian brand. It's actually a Fender in pretty good shape, and she gave me a pretty fair deal on it as well. I'm happy to be able to play around on a guitar again, and since getting it I've even come up with a bridge for a song that I've been tinkering with for seven years or something crazy like that. Last Friday, Alison took me and another PCV named Sam to the Window on America in Simferopol. Many towns in countries around the world have these, and they are basically Embassy-sponsored American cultural centers where people can access US news material, books, movies, and all kinds of general information in English. They also offer "clubs" or classes on different topics lead by Americans, and Sam and I went there to get set up to lead some of these clubs ourselves. I'm waiting to hear back from them about what they'll have me do exactly, but it sounds more like straightforward English teaching than anything else, which should be pretty fun. I think the clubs are usually weekly, so it isn't too big of a commitment. It will be good to have something like this to structure my days / week around.
Alison also had a sort of going away party for herself and some other Crimea-based PCVs that are headed out soon, and there were others there who will be sticking around for a while. On Saturday night we all hung out in Alison's apartment drinking and playing charades for some reason. There are some pretty cool people around here in Peace Corp, and now I have some contacts for people in some different towns around Crimea. On Sunday, Alison again introduced me to some new people by inviting me along to dinner with her friend James. James is Chinese-Malaysian, and a student at the local Medical University. The school has a lot of students from Malaysia, as well as a number from India, the Middle East, and Nigeria. Apparently the school actively recruits students in these countries, and appeals to those who can't afford to attend universities in the West. After Malaysia recognized a degree from Crimean State Medical University as a legitimate medical degree, a huge wave of Malaysians came. Apparently the government has since revoked the decision to recognize the degree, once it came to their attention that the school isn't so great, but all those who had already come will have their degrees honored. So, James cooked us a delicious Chinese dinner, and we ate with him and his roommate Wong in their dorm room. On the way there we got stuck in the dorm's elevator for about five minutes before Wong came to break us out. Both of these guys were super friendly and spoke great English. James had gone to an English boarding school in India, so he was particularly well-spoken. Over dinner they told us more about life at the university, and about being Asian in Crimea. Apparently most people are used to seeing them around by now, and they don't get stared at as much as they did when they first arrived. Wong told us about the characteristics of our respective Chinese zodiac signs, then read our palms and showed us his tinctures. I had a very nice time with them, and hopefully I'll get to hang out with them some more in the near future. There's a night club here called the Cobra Club that apparently all the Malaysian students go to, but James has never gone. I told him that if he ever wanted to go I would go with him, so maybe I'll be checkin that out at some point. While at the university, Alison also pointed out where the Middle Eastern restaurant hidden among the dorms is, and now I'm excited to go back and check that out.
The other thing that's been going on lately is the arrival of a journalist who's writing a series of articles about the Crimea situation for the inline magazine Slate. His name is Joshua, and Maria had met him in DC and gave him my email address. He arrived on Saturday, and I arranged it so that he can stay in my new apartment during the week or so before I move in. While waiting for our meeting with the landlord, I showed Joshua around town a bit. We ate lunch at a Turkish place I hadn't been to yet, and wandered around the downtown area. On Monday the two of us took a day trip to Bakhchisaray, where we met up with Maria and wandered around town taking in the general Crimean Tatar-ness of it all. We saw the first medrassa in Europe (currently undergoing reconstruction), and I visited a master jeweler in his workshop. Joshua asked him some general questions as he started to form in his mind the article that he'll be writing about the Crimea Tatars. After our meeting and a little lunch, we checked out the Khan's Palace, which I had missed the last time I was in Bakhchisaray. Maria's ethnographer friend met us there to give us more background on the Crimean Tatars. He showed us around the grounds for a bit while Joshua asked some more questions and Maria translated. We got to see the legendary Fountain of Tears, about which Pushkin's famous poem "Bakhchisaray Fountain" was written. This poem was basically responsible for the sparing of the Khan's Palace and the small remnants of Crimean Tatar culture in Crimea during the Soviet period (apparently Stalin was a big fan). Considering the legend behind the fountain, I found it to be quite disappointing. It wasn't all that cool looking, and there was barely a trickle of water coming out of it at all (check my flickr page for a picture). After the palace we headed through the old town and up the hill behind it towards the Crimean Tatar settlement on the other side. This is where many of the Tatars settled in makeshift houses after returning from Central Asia beginning in the late 80's. There are a lot of settlements like this in Crimea, especially all around Simferopol. These settlements have since been given legal status, and the houses have been improved, but they are still generally very poor areas. The sky was getting very cloudy, dark, and sinister-looking, and made for some great pictures. I got a great one of the local Mosque with the creepy sky (again, check flickr). After a long walk back down the hill, Maria headed off and Joshua and I headed back towards the bus station to catch a ride back to Simferopol. Once we got there it started to rain for the first time in about a month here, so we jumped on the first marshrutka headed for our neighborhood. This was unfortunately heading the wrong way, so we had to backtrack a ways towards Bakhchisaray, and once we reached the end of the line had to ask the driver to let us on for the ride back into Simferopol. At least we got to stay out of the rain.
The last couple days Joshua has been going around and interviewing various people to collect material for his articles, and I've tagged along for most of them since I'm interested in essentially the same topic. In fact, a few of the interviews were with people that I suggested. These included the head of the Institute for Strategic Research, which reports directly to the President of Ukraine on Crimean issues, and the director of the Central Crimean Museum. I met both of these people last week when my advisor Sergei Nikolaiovich took me to meet them. Both are good friends of his, and they will both be helpful to my research in the coming months. I also took Joshua to meet my advisor at the university, and between the three of these people I think Joshua got some good stuff that he can work with. These Russian academic types, I'm finding, tend to say a lot but never really get to the point, and when they do the things they say are sometimes kind of crazy. For instance, my advisor said that he thinks Crimea has avoided conflict because Russians have a genetic predisposition towards avoiding conflict. This is something that has kind of come up before, and I know he's kind of got some weird Russian nationalist views, but at least he realizes his views as subjective and can still be helpful in guiding my research. Ignoring some of the crazy stuff, these guys made some interesting points about a number of issues surrounding the current Crimean geopolitical situation, and I hope they've been useful for Joshua. I personally didn't take a lot of notes, but it all got me thinking about some things that I'll be able to elaborate upon later with these same people. We also had another meeting with the Editor in Chief of the largest Crimean newspaper, Krymskaya Pravda. Like the others, he made some pretty crazy statements, but generally made some interesting points that he believes reflect the general feeling of the Russian population in Crimea. He said that he met earlier this year with Putin and Medvedev, thereby giving me and everybody I know a direct link to those two in the game of "six degrees of separation." He spoke very good English, but in order to explain everything in detail he preferred to speak in Russian. Joshua had hired a translator named Gulya to do all the translating at these meetings, and I must say it was nice being able to hear everything in English after hearing it in Russian, because there are still a lot of things that I miss in conversations like these. Gulya's a Crimean Tatar girl who has interned at the UN, and generally seems like a really cool person. I got her number, so hopefully I'll be seeing more of her around. Our meeting with the editor went really well, and he seems very accommodating. I told him that I'll be here doing research until July, and that I may wish to speak with him some more, and he seemed all to happy to help me. I'm just glad to finally be making all this good connections around here.
So, there are some interesting things coming up for me: Tomorrow Maria is driving Joshua and myself out to the far east of Crimea to the city Kerch, which is just across the strait from Russia (where I took a ferry a couple of years ago). Joshua is hoping to talk to someone there about the row over an island called Tuzla back in 2003 between Russian and Ukraine, but I have a feeling not much will come of it. It should be a fun trip either way. In the next few days I move into my new apartment, which I'm very excited about. Also in the next couple days, a Moldova Fulbrighter and his brother will be visiting and with them and Joshua I think I might head down to a town called Balaclava near Sevastopol, where they have a really cool submarine museum. Then, on the 25th, I head out for the big road trip to Lviv with Maria. I'm working on my return route back to Crimea, which I won't go into just yet, but it should be very interesting. I'm not sure if I'll get anything posted here before then (probably not, actually), so this may have to tide everyone over for a while. So, see you when I see you.

-Austin

к сожaлению, мой пол всегда грязный

So, I've been keeping fairly busy this past week or so. Let's start with last Wednesday. I met briefly in the early afternoon with a woman at the University who had just gotten back from a Fulbright-sponsered conference in Kiev, and she had been given my Fulbright ID to give to me upon her return to Simferopol. It turns out I had actually met her briefly during my first tour of the university a number of weeks ago. She's a professor of Political Science and speaks great English. I think she was on a Fulbright program in the US before. I got her card and I think I'll get in touch with her sometime soon to learn more about the Poly Sci department there and how they might be helpful for my project. After our meeting I headed downtown to grab some lunch at Cafe Piroga, and just when I couldn't find any open seats who should I find there but Maria, the grad student I had finally met a couple weeks before. We sat together while we ate our lunches and gushed over our happiness for the election results. We caught up on our recent trips (she had just returned from Turkey), and finally made plans for her to swing by my apartment later that evening to pick up a book she had lent me. She had to stick around to use the cafe's wifi, while I went for a little walk. She had told me about a music store where I could find a guitar, so I went looking for it but never actually found it. I did end up in the vicinity of the central market, though, and since I still hadn't checked it out I decided it was finally time. It is a lot bigger than any of the other markets I've been to so far in Simferopol, and reminded me a little of Osh bazaar in Bishkek (which is definitely a good thing). I'll now be keeping this market in mind whenever I need to buy just about anything. I finished exploring the market and headed home to wait for Maria to come by. She was the first person besides landlords, delivery people, cable installers, etc. to see my apartment, and I think she thinks it was pretty funny. She said it was the quintessential post-Soviet "remonted" (like remodeled) apartment, and she is right. It's kind of made up to look nice and shiny, but its kind of soulless and sterile feeling. I haven't really minded it too much, though, and besides the lack of hot water I haven't really thought of any good reason to move. Then, she mentioned that her old apartment was now free since she had just moved to Bakhchisaray, and she said that the rent is about $100 cheaper per month than it is here. It also has it's own water heater, and a lot more furnishing, storage space, utensils, bedding, etc. I had visited her there once before, and I did think that it was a nice cozy place, so now the prospect of moving there was starting to sound pretty good. As she was leaving, she invited me to tag along with her the next day to a Crimean Tatar music "festival" about an hour north of SImferopol, which sounded like a lot of fun, so I agreed to come.
I met Maria early the next morning at a corner near the central market, and we rendezvoused with some of her Crimean Tatar music connections who would be leading us to the festival. Maria is here researching Crimean Tatar music and ethnography, and she has made many friends and contacts in the Crimean Tatar community. Two of the people we were going to the festival with are apparently pretty well-known singers within the scene, and they were going to be judges at the festival. Maria has her own car, so we drove separately as the other car lead us out of town to a small village called Pervomaiskoye, in the northern part of Crimea. The festival was held in a small auditorium, and featured performances from acts all around Crimea. It really wasn't much of a festival, but more like a talent show. Many of the performers were children, but there were several adults as well. The acts were fairly versatile, and included a number of solo vocal performances, musical groups, traditional dace troupes, and even a skit. A lot of the dance numbers seemed very similar to me, and a lot of the music was lip-synced, or even instrument-synced. One of the groups featured a keyboard player whose keyboard wasn't actually plugged into anything, which made it fairly obvious that he wasn't really playing. I enjoyed it, and got a kick out of many of the acts that tickled my funny bone in a way that was very Tim and Eric. The problem, however, was that the festival featured 42 performances, so it really started to drag on way to long. Both Maria and I were enjoying it at first, but we started getting antsy and hungry as the acts started getting more and more monotonous. Once the scheduled performances had all finished, there was an additional musical interlude as the judges deliberated over their choices. I really don't know what they had to deliberate about, because there really didn't seem to be any winner. Instead, every single act was called up to the stage one-by-one to receive a certificate and some sort of prize. The prizes were a joke; some got stuffed animals, some got wooden owl statues, some got electric water-heating pitchers, and others got awful, cheesy dentist waiting room-style framed "art work." We had to sit and watch as each act was called up to receive these gifts! Once they had passed out all the prizes, and just as we thought we were free, two of the singers we had come from Simferopol with proceeded to give a mini concert for all their adoring fans in the audience. This is just like the typical synth- drum machine-backed, slightly eastern-sounding bland pop music you'd expect to hear in cabs all across much of the former USSR, and the people still eat it up. One of the singers got everyone, especially Maria and me, to et up and dance around in the aisles. Everyone does the belly-dancing style arm gestures when they dance here, and I tried my best to fit in but just felt ridiculous. Finally, they wrapped up all the singing, but we still weren't free to go. We had been invited to dine with our hosts and many others from the festival at a local restaurant, and although we were hungry, we knew we would be stuck there for a while. We followed everyone to the restaurant, where all the tables had been covered in snacks, salads, and drinks in anticipation of our arrival. It was a big group, so we took up the whole place. Everyone started snacking and sipping, and soon the toasts started. Apparently some Crimean Tatars adhere to the Islamic rule against alcohol consumption, but like Central Asians, many do not, and we drank toast after toast to the festival, to their culture, to friendship, blah blah blah. Since she was driving, Maria abstained from all but a couple toasts, but I happily joined in each time and as a results got pretty drunk. Everyone took turns giving toasts, even Maria when she was asked, and I was trying to mentally prepare a toast if they asked me to give one, but it never came around to me. Our soup and shashlyk finally came, and then the singing and dancing ensued. I was called up to dance with one of the singing sensations. Maria was getting really anxious to go, so in order for them to let us leave, she offered to sing and play some songs. She got up to the keyboard and played and sang a beautiful Ukrainian folk song, and everybody was so happy to learn that she was a musician herself. We got the person blocking us in to move their car, and we were finally off for the dark drive back to Simferopol. Once I got back to my apartment I realized that my cell phone had fallen out of my pocket, and I hoped it was still in Maria's car. Luckily she had just gone to use the internet before heading back to Bakhchisaray, and I was able to reach her by email in time for her to find my phone in her car and bring it back to me. [Side note: There's a lot of screaming and banging going on in the stairwell somewhere in my building, and it sounds like there's a serious fight going on or something. I'll try to ignore it.]
The next day was Friday, and I arranged a meeting with Maria's old landlord to see about renting the apartment. She had called him on my behalf the day before, and I set up a meeting the next evening to take another look at the apartment. The landlord's name is Sergey, and he is very friendly and seems to be very honest. When I had been there before I had only really seen the kitchen, so it was good to see the rest of it. There's a living room that's bigger than my bedroom here, with two couches (one of which folds out into a bed), a few bookshelves, a TV, and a nice big rug. There's a bedroom as well, but almost all of it is filled with a mountain of stuff that belongs to the Sergey's mother, who lives in New York. The room is mostly unusable, except for a fairly large bed that is tucked away in a nice little nook. The kitchen has a large table and with chairs, a refrigerator that's much larger than mine, a microwave, and all the utensils and cooking stuff I'll probably ever need. Oh, and a water heater of course! The only real downside is that there is no washing machine, but if it becomes a problem I could always buy one for not too much. There's also a weird closet that had a water leak in it recently and as a result smells pretty moldy, but Sergey has supposedly already cleaned it out some. The location is pretty great as well. It's only a few minutes walk from my current place, but closer to the center and even closer to the bus station and my local market. I also like the building itself and the neighborhood a lot better than where I am now. He agreed to rent the place to me for $300/month for at least the next three months, then he would have to reassess and depending on the economic situation in Ukraine, he might have to raise the price. I can live with that. I told him I was set on renting it, but that I'd just have to talk to my current landlord to make sure there won't be any problems with ending my lease early. I've been dreading calling him, but yesterday I finally mustered up the courage. I told him that I had found a new place that was cheaper and that I liked better, and that while I still liked my current place, I thought it would be better to move. By the time I called him the hot water had actually finally come on in my place, so I couldn't use that as a reason anymore, but I think it's still worth it to move. He seemed a bit upset at first, and didn't understand why I was moving now when I had told him before I'd be staying until August, but there wasn't really any way he could force me to stay, so he reluctantly said OK. I'm already paid up here through the 23rd, so I'll stay until around then, but I hope to start my lease on the new place around the 20th. My landlord called back a little later and suggested that he could lower my rent a bit if it would make me stay, but I said I just liked the other place more, and he finally gave up trying to win me back. He's a nice guy, and I felt a little bad bowing out of my lease so early, but it's totally worth it. I really like this other place.
Now, allow me to backtrack. On Saturday I took my first trip out to Bakhchisaray so Maria could show me around a bit. Bakhchisaray was the old capital of the Tatar Khante in Crimea, and today remains the center of Crimean Tatar culture. Maria is living there with a host family for a few weeks to be closer to all the action. The bus ride takes about a hlaf hour from Simferopol, and from the bus station I caught a marshrutka to the end of the line, which is right where Maria is living. The old town in Bakhchisaray is flanked on both sides by big cliffs that lead up into a couple different gorges, and it's just a really beautiful setting. From her place we started walking up one of the gorges to the Uspensky Monestary, built into the side of the cliff. Apparently it had first been carved out by some proto-Christian group centuries ago, then later incorporated by the Orthodox church, and just within the last five or so years it has been spruced up with new paintings and structural components. It was very beautiful, set into the side of the cliff face, and it looks like it has really benefited from its recent face-lift. There were a fair number of visitors and many vendors out, selling souvenirs, honey, wine, wild tea leaves, etc. From the monastery we pushed on up the gorge to the cave city of Chufut Kale. It is perched on a plateau above the cliffs and overlooking some nice gorges. A unique religious group called the Karaims lived here for many centuries. They're basically an offshoot of Judaism, wherein they believe in the Old Testament and use Hebrew, but they don't believe in the Talmud. I just recently read a little more about them, and apparently they migrated into Crimea and and a few other areas in Europe centuries ago from the Middle East, and lived in isolation for a long time. The cave city itself is quite different from the other cave city I visited recently. This one had a bit of a street plan to it, and generally seemed more thought-through. I'd say Ulistsikhe was cooler, just because it seemed much more ancient and spooky. This one did have some great views, though. After a bit of exploring we headed back down to town for some lunch. There are a few Crimean Tatar restaurants right around Maria's place, but only one was open, so we sat on their patio in the sun and had pretty good lagman and manty. After lunch we went back to her host family's place to trade music from our hard drives. This ended up taking much longer than we thought or hoped it would, and so I missed my chance to visit the Khan's Palace, the main attraction in Bakhchisaray. There will plenty of other opportunities. We chatted with her host mother for a while while we went through files. She teaches English in a classroom adjacent to the house, so she spoke to us in very good English. She gave us some background about the monastery and the cave city and about Bakhchisaray in general. She found it strange that I only wanted to drink water instead of coffee. By the time we finished with the files it was already dark, and since Maria was headed into town to use the internet, she gave me a ride back to the bus station. I waited around in the cold night for a while before the bus left for Simferopol, then had a nice ride back listening to Jesus and Mary Chain on my ipod.
I hung out with Maria again on Monday, after she called me in the morning and said I should meet her at the Crimean Tatar library. After some lunch at Piroga, I met her near the park and she showed me where the library is. She needed to talk to someone there, and thought it would be good for me to see it in case I needed to utilize some of their material for my project (which I very well might). She's also hoping that I might be able to help the director of the library develop and refine some grant proposals that she's been wanting Maria to help her with, but that she's just not able to do. I don't really have any experience writing up these rant proposals (they're very different from the Fulbright), and I don't even know where to go about finding this kind of grant money, but I'm going to try to help however I can. The director of the library is a very sweet older woman who said that I look just like one of her sons. She gave us a short tour of the library and gave me her card. Maria sent me some drafts of the rant proposals today, and they're aimed at developing a center to help raise awareness of the legal rights of ethnic minorities and the disabled, as well as arranging a conference along the same lines. It sounds pretty interesting, and I hope I can help make stuff happen. After the library, Maria had to pick up a new mobile modem she got to get online anywhere in the country where there's a cell phone signal. She has a mac just like mine, and we waited around the store for a while while they tried to get the modem configured. It was taking quite a while, since they aren't used to macs, so we went for a bite to eat while they took care of it. Maria hadn't had lunch yet, so we went to this pizza place that's pretty tasty (she gave me some of her pizza). When we got back to the store the internet thing was working, so we packed it up and headed out. Maria showed me a language school that's looking for native English speakers, and I took down the number from the sign. She also showed me the music store that sells guitars, but then she also remembered that a Peace Corp volunteer she knows who is leaving for home very soon is looking to sell her guitar, so it looks like i might be buying it from her. Maria gave me a lift home and invited me to a Crimean Tatar concert later that night, but I wasn't feeling up for it and decided to stay in.
Today I went to the University to finally get my student ID thing that will allow me to use the libraries and everything. I brought a small photo of myself to the Office for international student relations or whatever, and the told me to walk around for a bit while they made up my ID. I decided to check out the reservoir that just a little ways up the hill from the university. It took about 5 or 6 minutes to walk there from the university, and it's a fairly nice little body of water. The water level seems pretty low, and there were a lot of seagulls hanging out on the sloped side of the dam. There was another student there kind of hanging out. He was Asian, so I thought it might be one of the chinese students studying at the university. He seemed kind of lonely, and I thought about saying hello, but I had to fight that American tendency of mine, not knowing how it would be interpreted through possibly two cultural prisms, if in fact he was chinese. After throwing rocks in the water for a bit I headed back to the university, and waited around in the office while they finished up my ID. They gave me some fancy pens and a day planner, all produced in honor of the university's 90th anniversary. My ID turned out not to be any sort of handy card, but rather a half sheet of paper with my picture glued to it and stamp to verify it's authenticity. It basically says I'm a student there so let me do whatever. They didn't have a laminator, so they started explaining to me where I could et it laminated, but I just bought a little plastic folder to keep it in. I did a little grocery shopping at the market before heading home to take a nice, lukewarm shower. Even though the hot water is now on, it isn't always that hot. All the more reason to move.
That's pretty much my week, I was supposed to meet with my advisor on Monday, but our meeting keeps getting pushed back because he's been sick. As of now we're supposed to meet on Thursday so he can take me to the big library downtown. Hopefully it will pan out this time. Other things on the horizon: a farewell party on Saturday for some Peace Corp volunteers who are finishing up. I'm hoping there will be some there who aren't leaving yet, because it will be nice to meet some more people who will be around. Also, around Thanksgiving it looks like I'll be road tripping it out to Lviv in western Ukraine along with Maria, as she will be moving out there and doesn't want to have to drive all the way there by herself. It will take at least two days, and of I love long road trips, so I'm really looking forward to my first European road trip like this. There may even be the opportunity for a quick trip to Krakow from Lviv once we get there, and I'm starting to plan a trip back to Crimea for myself that would take me through Moldova. I'll tell you more when I know more.

-Austin

საქართველო

For a couple of different reasons, I've decided not to publish an entry I've written about my recent trip. If you'd like to read it, however, just send me an email ( austincharron@gmail.com ) or make a comment, and I'll send you a copy.

-Austin

...И горячей воды ещё нет

So I'm taking care of some last minute thins before heading off to Georgia tomorrow. Well, just to Kiev tomorrow, and then Georgia the next day. One thing I have to do is write something up here about my trip to Sevastopol on Saturday. My bus left around 10:30 Saturday morning and arrived about 11:45. All the guidebooks say that it takes two hours to get to Sevastopol, so I was surprised to see that it was really so much quicker. The ride back took closer to an hour, even. The ride out was pretty nice, The weather wasn't great; overcast and a little chilly, but at least it never rained. The countryside isn't as nice as on the way to Yalta, since that road goes through the mountains, but there was some nice scenic farmland and wooded areas. We skirted around the town Bakhchisarai, which is now at the top of my list of places to visit in Crimea, after having taken care of Sevastopol. The landscape gets pretty cool once you get close to Sevastopol. There's a town called Inkerman at the end of Sevastopol Inlet, where there are a bunch of cool cliffs that look like they have caves carved out of them. It gets pretty hill as you get into town, with lots of smaller towns all along the way. The bus station is right next to the train station, at the south end of a small inlet off of the main inlet, and from here one must head north to get to downtown Sevastopol. There was an old train engine on display outside the station with car attached that had a huge gun mounted on it, and on the engine was written "Death to Fascism!"
I caught a minibus into town, and was confused by the payment procedure. I guess buses do it differently in every town, because in Simferopol you usually pay the driver when you first get on, where as in Sevastopol you're expected to pay as you get off. I tried paying the guy when I got on and he wouldn't take it. I hopped off once I saw the statue of Nakhimov and I knew I was in the center. I headed straight for the water, and was pleased to find a nice little promenade area where people where out for a weekend stroll. This is where Sevastopol's famous eagle statue / pillar mounted on a rock out in the water is, though I was surprised at how close to the shore it was. I always figured it was out a ways in the water, but it was only about ten feet or so out. I walked along the water for a bit, when I saw some sort of huge awesome statue on a hill on the other side of a small harbor, and I knew I had to go check it out. I headed back up to the main drag and started in the direction of the statue. From the main street I turned down a path into Sevastopol's central market, which was fairly busy, this being Saturday. I didn't really bother stopping to look around the market area, because markets around here are more or less the same, really. Besides, I was on a mission to find the statue. I had lost sight of it by this point, but relied on my sense of direction to guide me. I ended up back down on the waterfront, this time on the other side of that small harbor. I found some stairs leading up, walked through a parking lot, then found another, much long set of stairs that took me to the top of the hill, from where I easily found the statue. I walked towards it along a dirt path, then down into the big open square below the statue. The statue was of two soldiers, one with his arm outstretched towards the sea (of which there was a nice view from the top of this hill) and pointing his bayonetted gun towards the sky with his other hand, while the other had his gun posed to shoot. To the tip of the bayonet the whole thing was probably about 50 feet high (though I'm bad at judging the height of things). I'm not really into all that militaristic stuff, but I thought this statue was really cool. I was just so blown away by the size and grandiosity of it. I sat beneath it for a while, watching the few other people mill about the square. There weren't a lot of people around since the statue is pretty out of the way. There were a few teenagers skateboarding, and when once tried to do an ollie his friend yelled out to him, "you got about 5 millimeters there!"
From the statue I headed back towards downtown. From the that hill I had seen to the top of another hill in the main part of town, and I could see another large statue, this one of Lenin pointing towards the sea. I started heading up that hill to find it, but got sidetracked by other things along the way. First, I came upon a nice looking orthodox church, and sat in its courtyard for a little while. There was a big water tank covered by a little roof with a cross on it, which I assumed meant that it was regarded as some sort of holy water. Most orthodox churches have some sort of spigot on the grounds where worshippers drink and wash their hands a faces, but it was funny to see this one coming from a normal-looking water tank. I saw quite a few sailors out as I walked up the hill as well, reminding me that I was in a Navy town. I got near the top of the hill and found a viewpoint looking down on South Bay (inlet, really), where most of the Russian Naval facilities are. In case you didn't know, Sevastopol was home to the Soviet Union's Black Sea Fleet, and when Ukraine became independent in 1991 there was a long drawn-out negotiation process between Ukraine and Russia over control of the fleet. In the end, Ukraine took a portion of the fleet for its own navy, while Russia kept most of it and was allowed to "lease" the port from Ukraine for a contracted period. They currently have it leased through 2017, and while Russia would certainly like to extend that lease when the time comes, while President Yushchenko has signaled that he would like to see the Russians leave and not have the lease renewed. Of course, 2017 is a long ways off, and a lot could happen between now and then. This struggle over Sevastopol is central to the tensions between Ukraine and Russia and the whole Crimean question that I'm here to research. I was actually quite surprised at how low-key the port seemed from the hilltop. I could see some warships, but there seemed to be only a few, with not a lot of soldiers around or anything. I guess I just expected there to be more activity or something. From this viewpoint I headed up into a park. There were some nice statues and fountains, as well as a carnival with rides, but the main attraction in this park is a large building called the "Panorama," that has a large panoramic mural of the history of the Siege of Sevastopol during the Crimean War. It seemed interesting, but you can only go in with groups and at scheduled times, and I didn't want to bother waiting around for another tour to start, so I skipped it. I know I'll be back to Sevastopol and have plenty of opportunities to see it.
I sat on a bench in the park for a while, when I saw a girl walking around who screamed American. She had a Vasser sweatshirt on, a backpack, and she was carrying around the old Lonely Planet Ukraine. I though it would be nice to have someone to talk to, so I caught up with her and asked if she spoke English. I think I made her nervous and startled at first, but when she realized I was asking a question in English she realized what was going on. She was, in fact, from the US, but she had grown up mostly in Argentina. Her names was Malina, and she did in fact go to Vasser. We walked out of the park and talked for a while. She currently lives in Kiev volunteering at some organization that helps the Jewish community in Ukraine (I can't really remember what it is they do exactly). She was in Crimea for a conference in Yalta, and was taking a day trip to Sevastopol. She also studied Russian in school, and also spent a semester in St. Petersburg after I did. She was on her way back to the bus station but decided to tag along with me for a little bit in my continuing quest to find the big Lenin statue. We went down a small street in the direction I thought it would be, but after a while it was beginning to look like we weren't really getting close to anything. I assumed, since the statue was so big, that I'd spot it eventually, but it wasn't working out. She was getting worried that we had gone too far in the opposite direction of the bus station, so we took some stairs down the hill towards the street that heads to the bus station so she could head out. I had already bought a ticket back to Simferopol for 8:00, so I headed back towards town to do some more sight seeing. We traded email addresses as we watched a man going into epileptic seizures while his friends tried to help him. We thought about trying to help, but we really didn't know what we could have done.
I walked back to where the statue of Nakihmov was and took some stairs down to a little dock area behind it. There was an old lady trying to recruit people for a guided tour on a boat, but I politely refused. On the dock, the captain of the boat also asked me if I wanted to take a ride. I was afraid it would cost too much, so I turned him down again, saying I was just there to take some pictures. I thought about it for a little while, and decided it probably wasn't that expensive, and that it was probably worth doing either way. I asked him how much it cost, and hie said 40 Grivnya (like, $7), so I decided to go for it. It was pretty late in the day by then and starting to get pretty chilly, especially out on the water, so I put on my new big warm hoodie. The tour started by heading down through South Bay (where the fleet is), where we got a closer look at all the ships. There were more there than I had initially seen from the top of the hill, but it still seemed pretty quite for such an important naval base. The captain also gave a guided tour with with all kinds of historical and topical information about this sights, but he didn't have an intercom or anything and I was sitting in the back, so I could barely hear him over the sound of the engine. I have a very hard time understanding Russian if there is background noise anyways, so I gave up quickly trying to listen to what he was saying. The tour was nice anyways, and I got some decent pictures of the boats and of the town from the water. after South Bay we headed out a little ways into the main bay to get a look at the eagle column, then headed back to port. On my way back up the steps, that same old lady stopped me and asked me where I was from. She asked me if I wanted to go to Moscow, so I said I'd already been there. She handed me a card of her tour company and asked, "Do you want to go to Moscow right now? Nobody goes to Moscow except us." I told her "maybe in the future," and was on my way.
I stopped into a little restaurant for dinner, and felt quite awkward the whole time as I was the only person there. I had a beer and an eggy pork chop wit french fries. Not that good, but not terrible I guess. I was starting to wish I hadn't bought a ticket back for so late, as I was getting tired and the sky was getting dark. I had a couple hours to kill, so I sat on a bench on the promenade for a while, looking out at the sea and listening to Kino on my ipod. I then wondered up some more stairs towards some other monument, but it was too dark to really see what it was of. I still had some time before I needed to be at the bus station, but I decided to head down there anyways, since I didn't really have anything else to do. I hoped in a marshrutka heading towards the station, but since it was dark I wasn't really sure when the station was coming up. I figured somebody else must be getting of there, or somebody at the station getting on, but I saw it go passed with nobody asking for the driver to stop, and by then I was too nervous to shout out for him to stop, so I kept riding it until somebody else needed to get off. This turned out to be quite a ways through what seemed like a bit of a sketchy area, so I figured it wasn't a good idea to walk back from there. Instead, I crossed the street to catch a bus heading back in the opposite direction. As I was boarding the bus, there was a bit of a jam of people near the door, as some people were trying to pay the driver before getting of while others were trying to get on. One guy trying to get off was getting frustrated. I had just gotten up the steps when he tried to shove his way down, and in doing so we kind of bumped into each other. Not a big deal or anything, but this guy got really mad and shoved me as hard as he could into the bus and into a group of people, and shouted at me, "YOUR MOTHER!" Now, this is a very common Russian insult, except he left off the first word, which means, "I fucked," though because of the grammatical structure, that part is still implied. I think this is the first time anybody's said that to me, which I guess makes it something of a milestone. I didn't really fall or anything, just kind of stumbled back a bit, and as he got off the bus I just gave him a look that said, "are you kidding me?" You know the look. Right after he got off, another woman caught in the jam of people tried to go for the door and got tripped up on something, falling into the area near the driver's seat. She never said anything but had an angry and embarrassed look on her face I helped her up with a couple other people, including the angry guy now outside the bus, and i was worried that she was with him and that the guy was going to get angry again and try to hit me or something, but he didn't say anything and the bus was quickly on its way. The whole incident happened so fast, probably about 15 seconds all together. I rode one stop back to the bus station where, thankfully, somebody else had to get off too, so I didn't even have to tell the driver to stop.
I waited around the station for about an hour before the bus left. It was more of a marshrutka than a bus, and I ended up with the very front single seat, so I had lots of leg room. The ride was quick, but unfortunately took us to the bus station downtown next to the train station, not the one near my apartment. I grabbed a quick shaurma, then caught what was probably one of the last buses of the night back to my neighborhood. A few stops down a huge crowd of people got on, which was very strange considering it was bout 9:30. When I got on it had been pretty empty, so I had a seat, but the bus got more and more packed. It was the most people I had ever seen on a bus in Simferopol. I figured that maybe it was literally the last bus of the night, so everybody had to pile in or they would be stranded. For a while I wasn't sure how I was going to et off, since there were so many people packed between me and the door, but enough people got off before my stop that it cleared up a bit and I was able to get off OK. I was pretty beat from a long day of sight seeing, and slept in nice and long Sunday morning. I was surprised to see that my computer's clock had gone back an hour, and then discovered that European Daylight Savings Time ended Saturday night, a whole week before it does in the US. SO, for this week only, I'm nine hours ahead of PST instead of 10.
On Monday my internet cut out, and I realized that I was supposed to pay the day before and had forgotten, so I headed over to Ardinvest to pay up. As of today the internet still wasn't working, so I headed back to see what the dilly was. As soon as I told the secretaries my internet was down, they said, "Vorovskogo 60?", which is my building number, so I immediately understood that the whole building (or cluster of buildings, as that address applies to at least ten buildings) was having problems. They asked for my apartment number, and told a guy in the back who was working on the problem. He asked what the number of my "something," and I didn't know what he meant. I said I didn't understand, so the secretary asked him, "do you know what it is in English?", and his face lit up and he asked, "You speak English?", in English. He seemed delighted to use his English, which was pretty good, though he still didn't know the word he needed, so he had another guy sitting next to him look it up. Turns out it was a word for "entry way" that I didn't know. He said that they were doing a lot of rewiring or something in my building, but that he would call his engineer and tell him to take care of my line right away. He gave me has number to call if it wasn't fixed by 4:00 today, but thankfully it was and I was able to get online just in time to Skype with mom.
Today I also bought some glue to fix my shoes, since after walking around Sevastopol I discovered that my brown shoes had cracks in the sole that were wearing through to my insole and had actually ruined my sock on the left foot. The shoe repair guy said he couldn't fix it, so I went to the "shoelace" ladies too see if they had some good glue. I was thinking something along the lines of Shoe Goo, but they gave me some super glue that supposedly works on shoes as well. They seem to be holding up pretty well so far, but I have a feeling they'll wear through after a bit of walking around. I was planning on wearing them to Georgia, so hopefully they'll at least hold up that long. I also bought some new insoles, which will hopefully keep my socks safe.
One last thing - Monday I had another meeting with Sergei, my advisor. We met briefly at the University to go over my project plan. Since it's still a bit up in the air, we came up with some general ideas. For November and December we agreed I should focus on reading and developing my ideas, as well as meeting and talking with some of the important people he knows. He told me about a good library downtown that has the best collection of material on Crimea anywhere, and he just happens to be friends with the director. He's going to take me there once I get back from Georgia. He also said that he's going to help arrange excursions around Crimea for me, which I'm very excited about. I feel like I'm in good hands under his tutelage, and I think he can provide a lot of good opportunities to meet people and make connections while I'm here. He's going to be showing a short film about the recent Georgia conflict and giving a brief lecture about it tomorrow afternoon, and although I might be busy getting ready for my own trip Georgia, I'm going to try to make it. He'll also be bringing some books for me to borrow. Should be interesting.
Ok, that's that. Expect something about Georgia once I get back in about a week. Wish me luck!


-Austin

что такие «шнурки»?

Hey guys. Let me fill y'all in on what's been going on. Last Sunday I finally got the chance to meet up and talk with other people in Simferopol! I think I mentioned before a grad student who's in Crimea doing research on ethnomusicology and whose blog I found a while back. Well, her name's Maria, and we had been playing internet tag for a little while but finally spoke on the phone on Sunday and she invited me over for some drinks and to hang out for a bit with her and her boyfriend, who was visiting. Turns out she lives about an 8 minute walk away, right next to the apartment I first stayed in when I got to Simferopol, in fact. I walked over around 9:00 along the river path. I had never been on the path at night before, and it was actually a bit creepy. It's completely unlit, so the only light source is whatever trickles through the trees from lights in buildings and from distant streets. Luckily I didn't get mugged, and after a bit of confusion trying to find the right building I finally met up with Maria. She lives in a cozy little apartment that feels much more lived-in than mine. Her boyfriend's name is Franz, and the two of them were super friendly and fun to talk to. Honestly, I was just really glad to be able to hang out with and talk to anybody, especially in English, since it's been pretty lonesome around here lately. I told her about my project and I learned more about what she's been doing here. She's looking at the musical heritage of the local Crimean Tatars, as well as another small ethnic group in Western Ukraine. She has a lot of great contact with the Crimean Tatar community, including the head of the (unofficial and unrecognized) Crimean Tatar Parliament, the Mejlis. This will definitely come in handy when it comes time to look more closely at the Crimean Tatar aspect of the current geopolitical situation down here in Crimea, as per my project. I talked with Franz for a while as well and found out that, like Maria, he's a musician and currently plays piano with the group The Hold Steady. They had to cancel some European tour dates, so he took the opportunity to come out and visit Maria. I was taken aback when he told me the name of the band because, though I actually hadn't heard The Hold Steady before, I had definitely heard a fair amount about them and knew that they are quite popular and well-known nationally and internationally. In fact, here's a clip of them on Letterman from this summer (that would of course be Franz on the keyboard). So, I thought it was pretty cool to unexpectedly meet something of a celebrity out here in Crimea. We all sat around drinking wine and talked a lot about music while I played DJ on Maria's iTunes. Franz and I even bonded a bit over our mutual love of Gene Pitney. We also played a rousing game of Scrabble on Franz's iPhone (man, those things sure are cool. I may just have to get one when I get back to the states next summer). I had a really nice time hanging out with them, and although Franz has since left Crimea, I look forward to meeting up with Maria again in the near future. She's soon moving to the nearby town of Bakhchisarai for a while, but it's so close that I definitely think we'll still have the opportunity to hang out once she moves out there. It might even give me a chance to finally get to check out Bakhchisarai, which is a Crimean must-see.
On Monday I went downtown for a bit, mainly to get lunch at one of my new favorite restaurants, Kafe Piroga (the inside-out pizza place). After lunch I went on a mission to find an ATM where I could withdraw US Dollars. See, I knew rent day was coming up, so I had to start collecting the rent cause I know you can't always withdraw the entire amount you need in one go. There's an ATM at the market near my place that supposedly dispense Dollars, but every time I've tried it says that it cannot process the request. I have a feeling that this might have to do with the fact that the Grivnya (local currency) has been getting increasingly weak against the dollar lately, as the global credit crisis starts taking its toll on Ukraine. When I first got here just about a month ago, the Dollar was worth just over 5 Grivnya, and now it's closer to 6. I've heard that the ATMs are running out of Dollars really quickly as people are hoarding them as the Grivnya gets weaker and weaker. My friend Tye was running into this same problem when he was trying to get his rent money together in Kiev while I was there. Wether or not this is really what's happening, I certainly wasn't able to find Dollars anywhere. Most ATMs I found simply don't stock Dollars, but there is one bank whose ATMS do give you the option of withdrawing Dollars. I've probably tried about four different ATMs from this bank, and none of them were able to dispense Dollars. I must have tried twelve ATMs all together. I got frustrated after a while and decided to head home. I did get to walk down a street where I hadn't been yet and see a bit more of the city in my quest for ATMs, at least. I finally determined that I was just going to have to pay my rent in Grivnya, so the next day I withdrew about $400 worth from a nearby ATM to hold onto it until rent day. I checked the current exchange rate online, and $400 I think was about 2,150 Grivnya. Well, today (Thursday) was rent day, and my landlord called this morning to say he'd be coming by today. I told him I couldn't find any Dollars and that I would have to pay him in Grivnya. He said that was OK, and that he'd check the current exchange rate once he got to Simferopol from wherever it is he lives. I checked it myself online, and saw that $400 was now about 2,300 Grivnya! Considering that I would also be paying for my utilities, I was afraid I now didn't have enough Grivnya to cover it all, so I ran down to the nearest ATM and got some more to cover it. Well, after saying he'd be by before noon, I waited around all day for my landlord and he never showed up. I'm now wondering if he decided to wait another day hoping the exchange rate would go up (or down? which do you say in this case?) so he could get some more Grivnya out of me. But, I also wonder, would that benefit him? Would he benefit from having more Grivnya even if they are worth less and all together worth the same amount visa-a-visa the Dollar? I really can't figure that stuff out. I'll have to ask Tye the economist. Anyways, we'll see what the exchange rate is tomorrow and if he comes by or not. It was pretty annoying waiting around for him, I must say.
Let's skip back one day here. Yesterday was Wednesday, the day of my big presentation. Actually, "presentation" is really overstating it. They really just wanted me to briefly introduce myself and say a bit about my research interests and goals during their staff meeting. The night before I had written up what I wanted to say (this is all in Russian, mind you) and more or less memorized it. I got there early and mulled around the halls a bit before they called me in to there meeting and sat me down in front of a room of about 15 people. I think this is the largest group of native Russian speakers that I have addressed in Russian before. The head docent (not like a guide, but kind of like a secretary or overseer of the department), whom I had met the previous week, gave me a brief introduction and said some of the things that I was going to include in my brief speech. It threw me off a bit, and so not to sound redundant I improvised a bit, using parts of my prepared speech to fill in the holes her introduction had left. I made a few little slip ups, but over all I think I spoke pretty well and everyone seemed satisfied with what I had said. It was then that I was introduced to the man who is going to be my advisor, Professor Kysylev. This is the husband of the professor I had met with before. He didn't look very professorial, in fact I never would have guessed that he was a professor if I had seen him on the street. He's kind of lanky, has bad teeth,and was wearing baggy corduroys and a light tan sweater. We left the meeting so we could start talking and he could show me around a bit. The first stop was the faculty restroom so he could smoke a cigarette out the window. We were joined by a couple other smokers during the course of his cigarette. He's quite talkative and speaks fairly quickly, but I could follow him for the most part. He took me to the university's main library, as well as a few smaller libraries and reading rooms scattered throughout the building (there is one main building for the whole university) so he could introduce me to the librarians and so they'll remember me when I return to do research. He also showed me how to use the library's card catalog system, though apparently there's also a digital version available. He took me to the university's bookstore, which has a lot of great books available on Crimean topics (the best collection of books on Crimea available anywhere, he assured me). He also showed me the school's cafeteria, which will be a nice place to get some cheap food when I'm there. At one point in the tour his wife called me and asked me to hand the phone to her husband. Apparently he left his phone at home, so he had to go meet her to get it and apparently take care of some other business, because he stuck me in a room for about 15 minutes while he took care of things. Some of the docents and secretaries were in this room taking questions from students. They gave me some chocolate, sat me in a chair, and showed me the Atlas of Crimea that the Geography department published not too long ago. I must say I was quite impressed with the atlas. It featured dozens of maps with all kinds of geological, geomorphological, meteorological, and demographical information, presented in some very innovative ways. It's not quite the Atlas of Oregon that the U of O Geography department published, but that one sets the bar pretty high. I asked them where I could buy a copy, and they said that they weren't really available for sale. Lucky for me, one of the professors soon arrived to present me with my very own copy, a gift from the department! I was quite smitten, as most of you reading this will know that I'm a bit of a map and atlas junkie. The one I had been looking at was published in Russian and Ukrainian, but the one they gave me was in English and Ukrainian, which is fine, but ideally for me it would have been in English and Russian. I can't complain though, It really was a great gift. This now makes three books that i have been given by the university. Professor Kysylev returned after a bit and we saw some more of the building. We ended the tour outside and stood around talking for a while. Actually, I didn't really do much talking at all as he never really asked me a lot of questions. I asked a few short questions myself, but I was mainly focusing on keeping up with his ranting. He does tend to go off topic quite a bit. I don't mean to sound like he wasn't helpful or anything. I think he will be very useful as an advisor, and I look forward to working with him more. He kept telling me about all the important people that he knows and to whom he will introduce me. Most of them included distinguished academics in all kinds of fields, but also local politicians and people in the media, including the local correspondent for Russian TV news giant NTV. One thing I quickly learned about the professor is that he doesn't really display the kind of academic objectiveness that we usually expect in our professors in the US. I mean, certainly American professors have their opinions and aren't usually afraid to let them be known, but with Professor Kysylev (and I suspect this is true of a lot of academics in this part of the world) his personal convictions seem like they would often conflict with and may even guide his research and teaching agenda. To put it bluntly, I detected some hints of pro-Russian tendencies in him, which I would expect of most people down here, but I was a bit surprised to see it come through in an academic like this. For example, he mentioned the pro-Ukrainian minority in Crimea, and did the Russian gesture for "crazy" where you touch your temple with your middle finger and rotate your wrist around. He said something to the effect of "they're not right in the head." Can you imagine a professor in the US saying something like this? It doesn't mean that he won't be able to teach me anything, it just means that I might have to take some of the things he says with a grain of salt and not let it effect the objectivity of my research. Anyways, we concluded our meeting with a plan to meet again very soon (before I go to Georgia) to discuss my project itself, since we really didn't touch on it this time. I'm probably going to call him tomorrow and set up a Monday meeting, so I can have some time to refine my ideas a bit more.
After our meeting I wandered through the botanical gardens next to the school. I found some nice areas with ponds and flower gardens. I think this is my favorite park in the city, since it is so close and peaceful. I walked through the park and came out near the market. I had some pastries for lunch and couldn't help but give some scraps to an adorable and hungry little dog that sat at my feet looking longingly while I ate. I also had to buy some shoelaces, since the lace on my left brown boot snapped a few days before as I was tying them. The problem was, I didn't know the word for shoelaces and had forgotten to look it up in the dictionary. So, I went to the booth where the friendly lady sells miscellaneous household goods an told her, "I need something and I don't know what it's called, but I can show it to you." I held up my shoe and pointed to my laces. She and the woman she was talking with both chuckled and said, "shnurky?" Aha! I think I had heard that word before but had forgotten it. While they helped me learn the word, they didn't actually have them there, but they pointed me towards the booth that sold general shoe items, where I proudly and successfully asked for shnurky. I returned to my apartment, laced up my boots, and waited around until a little before sunset to take a walk to the top of the cliffs across the street. I had decided it was finally time to check it out, and I wanted to lighting to be good so I could get some nice pictures. I walked down the street towards downtown about 8 minutes or so to where the path up the hill starts, and quickly made my way to the top. Parts of it are pretty steep, but over all it was an easy and pleasant little hike up to the top. This hill, as I think I have explained, is one big archeological site of the ancient Scythian civilization that lived in Crimea over 2,000 years ago. I guess the whole project lost funding or people's interest because there's nothing going on up there nowadays, and the hilltop is a nice open grassy pasture that is pockmarked by small dips and rises that bare evidence to past digs. The view over the city is pretty nice, though to be honest Simferopol isn't that spectacular looking from up there (you do get a pretty good sense for the size of the city, though). You view is mainly of my end of town, including of course my building right in front and the hill on the other side of the bus station behind it. It was cool to get a better sense of the complex of apartment buildings that my apartment is in, and I could even pinpoint my window. Looking southeast from the top, you can also see the edge of the dam on the other side of the university. I haven't been out there yet, but I guess I didn't realize how elevated it actually is. It does make sense, considering it's a manmade reservoir built up behind it. I look forward to checking it out one of these days. Although the top of the hill is very grassy and soft, the cliff edge is very rocky and craggy, and I found pins that have been driven into the rock near the edge where people can belay down the side of the cliff. I've seen people doing this from my window, in fact. The sun was setting on the other side of the hill, and I got some nice pictures of the city and of the hilltop itself. I walked around the side facing away from my apartment towards a big apartment building that I can see from my window. I found a small steep path down the hillside and made my way back to the street, from where I walked downhill back to the apartment as it started getting dark. I stopped in at one of the small grocery stores I recently discovered, and bought two small chicken Kiev cutlets for dinner. Since I don't have a microwave and I didn't want to bother heating them in the oven, I decided to eat them cold. The first was fine, but when I bit into the second one I found that most of the chicken inside was still raw! only bit into the breaded outer coating, but I pulled out some of the chicken and found that it was still pink, so I spit it all out, threw it away and cooked some eggs instead.
Like I already said, today I mostly hung around the apartment waiting for my landlord to show. I finally left around 4:00 so I could get some food at the market. I discovered another food stand, this one serving falafel and "pita burger." I had the pita burger this time, which was a burger patty in a pita shell (not really pita, though) with onions, cabbage, beets, ketchup and mayonnaise. It was alright, but I'm looking forward to trying the falafel next time. Tomorrow is Friday, and assuming my landlord shows up and I get my rent situation squared away, I think I'll buy a bus ticket to Sevastopol for Saturday. I'll probably come back later that day, but if I like it enough and feel I need some more time there, maybe I'll rent an apartment for the night. I promise I'll write here at least once more before heading to Georgia in a little less than a week.

-Austin

вы упали в хорошем месте

I guess it's been about a week since I last posted, so I think it's time I got to it. It hasn't been because I've been too busy, as Grandma surmised, but just to opposite in fact. Things have been really slow lately and I just haven't felt the need to really write about. I'm still in a bit of a slump as far as getting going on my project, as well as getting involved with other - for lack of a better word - extracurricular activities, but it looks like things should be picking up in both those regards soon.
The most exciting thing I've done since you last heard from me was take a day trip down to Yalta, which I did last Saturday. It's really easy to catch a ride at the bus station a few minutes from my apartment. You don't even have to go through the bus station itself, because several trolleybuses and marshrutkas come by on their way out of town and you can just hop on like you would for a ride around the city, and it only costs about $4. I hoped on a marshrutka and settled in next to some guy whose jacket was taking up part of my seat. The drive takes about and hour and fifteen minutes, and is quite pretty especially now with leaves turning. About two fifths of the ride to Yalta is along the coast, starting at the town Alushta and going by smaller towns like Gurzuf, Nikita, and Massandra. The mountains rise pretty quickly out of the sea along Crimea's souther coast, and so the highway is set up above most of the towns, which lets you look down at most of them as you drive past but doesn't afford you the same overview of the place like a drive through the town might. These towns are usually set on a nice bay or inlet and all seem pretty nice. I'll have to find the time to take a nice slow tour of the towns along the southern coast from Alushta (or even further up, like from Sudak) to Sevastopol.
I was in nostalgia mode most of the time in Yalta, thinking back on the time I was here two years ago with fellow St. Petersburg study abroaders. I made a beeline for the waterfront as soon as I got into town, walking the fairly long distance from the bus station. In fact, it was quite a bit longer than I remember it being last time. The waterfront was just as I remembered it, but the weather was much nicer this time and the town was still just coming down from it's summer high season, so much more people were out along the waterfront and most of the gimmicky rides and games were still all set up, unlike last time (it was March when I went before). I sat on the edge of the dock for a bit, enjoying the view, the sun, and the cool sea breeze. I don't remember being able to do so last time, but I thought I could see all the way to the Swallow's Nest down the coast. It could have just been a rock that looked like it from that far of a distance, though. I strolled along the promenade for a while, taking the time to walk down piers and sit on a small rocky beach for a while. It was by no means an ideal beach; very small, right off of the busy promenade with no sense of privacy, and there was a speaker pointed directly at the beach that would blare a pre-recorded message about tours of the surrounding area every few minutes. It was nice to sit there for a bit though, and I even got to go wading in the water. I had a swimsuit in my backpack and I probably could have found a place to change into it and go for a swim (the water was a little chilly, but not too bad at all), but it didn't seem right for some reason. Plus, I would have had to leave my backpack with my camera, ipod, etc. unattended on the shore, which seemed too risky on a busy beach like this. Another thing: I found that some people around here are pretty shameless about wearing a swimsuit and sunbathing in public when they probably should be.
From the beach I cut up away from the water front into a neighborhood I didn't check out last time. I stumbled upon a wonderful little church across the street from a "topless bar" (which is just transliterated from the English) called the Arizona Club. I kept walking along this one street for a while as it starting rising about the downtown area, thinking that it would eventually intersect another street that would lead me back down, but after a while I realized it just kept going without a way down, so I had to turn around. I lingered along the waterfront a little while longer, mostly just people-watching, before heading to the area east of downtown near the train ticket booth. It was here that I stumbled upon another area of town that I hadn't discovered last time: a whole different waterfront / beach area! I don't know how I could have missed it, because it seems like a major destination for visitors. It's called Massandra beach, like the nearby town, and it is accessible by a little path off of one of the main roads that I just didn't bother checking out before. It's actually a series of different beaches sectioned off from each other by big raised platforms jutting out into the sea. There is a nice path lined with vendors and restaurants along the edge of the beaches, and to the other side the hill rises rapidly and there are a number of fancy hotels and apartments. Many of the beach sections are reserved for guests of various hotels, but some of them at least appeared to be public, so I went down onto one and sat in the pebbles for a while, throwing rocks into the water. I walked a little further down the beach afterwards until the beach area tapered off. I watch a women swim pretty far out into the water, but since the water was really quite calm it didn't seem dangerous at all, like it might in the Pacific back home. The sun was getting low in the sky, so I figured I should start heading back to Simferopol. I walked back to the down town area and caught a marshrutka back up to the bus station, where I found a minibus right away heading to Simferopol. By this time the sky had somehow gotten very overcast, so the views of the sea weren't as inspiring heading back. It was dark by the time I got back to Simferopol.
In the week since Yalta I've done a whole lot of nothing, really. I've gotten pretty engrossed in the elections back home, and have spent a lot of time on the internet catching up on all the developments. I even got up at 4:00 AM the other night to watch the third debate online. I've also been doing more research on Crimea stuff, just getting more ideas about the direction I want to take my project. I've been doing a bit more exploring around the city as well. I've discovered a few new restaurants that I like. One of them is in the market by my apartment. They have fairly decent pizza and pasta for pretty cheap. I also discovered a shaurma place at the market that's better than the other one I've been going to. I think the key difference is that they put onions in it, while the other one doesn't. There's another place downtown that I had been meaning to check out, since I had walked by before and thought I saw people eating blinis. I finally tried it the other day, but was confused by there menu and didn't see blini at first, so I ended up ordering their specialty, a "pie", or "pirog" (the place is called "Cafe of Pirog"). These pies are unlike either the American or Russian conception of a pie, but are pretty tasty. They're basically like a pizza with another thin layer of crust folded over and covering the toppings. I guess it's kind of like a calzone, but it's still flat and you eat it like a pizza. I got my with chicken and cheese. It was only after I ordered that I found the separate blini menu on the wall, much smaller than the big pirog menu. I definitely enjoyed it, but I'll have to try the blinis next time.
One day earlier this week I was going to try to make it down to Sevastopol for the day, but it proved unsuccessful. I thought I'd be able to simple hop on a bus or marshrutka that was heading there, much like I had to Yalta, because it's about the same distance away.Since my neighborhood isn't on the way to Sevastopol, I headed down to the train station where I thought I could find a ride. It turns out there aren't really any marshrutkas going t Sevastopol, or anything that you can just simply "hop onto," you have to actually buy a ticket for a scheduled bus. It was already kind of late in the day by the time I got to the station and figured all this out, plus there was a long line for tickets and there didn't seem to be a bus heading to Sevastopol for a little while, so I bailed on the plan. There are buses to Sevastopol leaving from the bus station right by my apartment too, so it will be easy to buy a ticket and catch a bus there sometime in the very near future. Anyway, since I was going to stick around town and hadn't eaten yet, and since the ticket booth was right next to McDonalds, I decided to pop in for a quick lunch. It's not the best place to have lunch, but at least it did provide me with a funny anecdote that pertains nicely to my research project: I was sitting at a table outside on their patio, when some guy asked if he could sit there too, since the other tables were all taken. We both sat quietly eating, not talking to each other, when he finally gestured towards the trash bin and asked me, "what does that mean, 'dya-ku-yem-o?'" He was talking about the word written on the flap to the garbage can that all fast food places have. Knowing what's usually written on those flaps, knowing that everything at McDonalds is written in Ukrainian here, and knowing that this word sounds very similar to a certain Czech word I know, I had already determined that "dyakuemo" means "thank you" (or, probably, "we thank you"). I told him simply, "I think it's Ukrainian," to which he shook his head and said, "kashmar!" (like, "what a nightmare!"). Once he had finished his food, he looked to me again and asked, "where am I supposed to put this garbage?" I smiled and said, "over there where the Ukrainian writing is," to which he just shook his head again, as if that were only adding insult to injury. I couldn't help but laugh to myself after he left. I know he lives in Crimea and speaks Russian, but the idea that he would never have encountered that word in Ukrainian before, and the fact that he would seem so personally offended by it, seems strange to me considering that Ukrainian is still used in advertising, television, and all other kinds of media in Crimea. It just goes to show how important the language issue is for the overwhelmingly Russian-speaking population of Crimea. Also the fact that he didn't know where to put his garbage was pretty funny as well.
After lunch I rode back to my neighborhood, but instead of going home I decided to explore the area a little bit. I walked down Gurzufskaya street and ended up at the creek, which I followed in the direction away from town. I then cut over to the University's botanical garden, which the creek runs past. It was a warm sunny day, and it was very nice to walk through the rose gardens and various other landscaped garden areas. I sat on a bench for a while enjoying the weather before heading home. On the way back I passed a pretty cool monument commemorating the deportation of the Crimean Tatars. It was a big chunk of stone in the shape of Crimea, with beams heading out in different directions towards stones with the names of all the Soviet republics that the Crimean Tatars were sent to (Russia, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, and Uzbekistan, which got the vast majority). I took a slightly different route back home from the one I usually take, and found some shops I hadn't seen before, including a grocery store that I'll probably check out soon.
Yesterday I was finally able to schedule a meeting with the head of the International Education Department at the university. The director, Marina, is the one who has been trying to get a meeting for me with the Rector of the university, and she is a good resource for all things going on at the university as well. On my way into the main university building, I was simply waved in by the security guard, while some chinese students had to rummage through their bags for their IDs. I don't think he remembered me from the one other time I came in with a professor (I don't even know if it was the same security guard). Maybe I just looked like a Westerner and he figured I must have some official business there, or maybe he's just racist towards Chinese. Anyway, my meeting went well, although it doesn't look like I'll b getting a meeting with the Rector any time soon. Apparently he's in the middle of giving out awards or something right now, and after that he's taking his vacation. Marina tells me that he has been informed of my presence, so there may be some sort of formal contact with him later on down the line. At any rate, I think I'll probably want to interview him for my project sometime in the spring (I think I mentioned that he was speaker of the Crimean Supreme Soviet [like Parliament] in the early '90's and played a very important role in the process of securing Crimea's autonomous status). He's actually a professor of geography, and Marina gave me a copy of his book "The Regional Geopolitics of Sustainable Development" about Crimea, which will likely come in very handy. She also gave me a copy of a recently published book with general information about the university in Russian and English. I told her more about my ideas and plans for my research project, and afterwards she took me to the geography department to meet with the vice-dean and head secretary of the Socio-Economic Georaphy faculty, who in turn introduced me to the Dean. Marina and I told them about who I was and what I was interested in doing here, and now they've scheduled me to come back on Wednesday during a meeting of the faculty to meet the professors and give a brief presentation of myself and what I'd like to research while I'm here. I'll finally get to meet the husband of the professor I met with earlier who, it sounds like, will end up being my primary advisor while I'm here. I'm pretty nervous about this presentation, given my modest language skills and still somewhat vague ideas about my project, but I think it should turn out alright. Marina had to leave before I had a chance to talk to her about some other things not relating to my project specifically, such as getting hooked up with the English department and seeing if they need an assistant or if I could do some tutoring, but it will have to wait for our next meeting. Before she left I was able to get the phone number of one of the students from Willamette University who are studying here, though it turns out they just left for a two-week trip to Moscow and St. Petersburg, and once they get back I'll be heading out to Georgia, so it may be a while before I'm able to get in touch with them, but I'd certainly like to. I did pass two girls speaking English on the river path the other day, and I suspected they might be two of the Willametters. but I didn't think quick enough nor would I have been bold enough to simply blurt out, "hey, English!" or something like that. In other news, I have made email contact with a grad student who is here doing research and whose blog I have been following for a while. She was out of town for most of this week, but hopefully we'll be meeting up soon, because I'm really starting to get bored and lonely without people to hang out with here.
One last thing I did: Today I finally checked out the book fair that happens every weekend a few bus stops up Kiev street. It's pretty big, but a lot of vendors were already starting to pack up by the time I got there. Most of them were selling books aimed at students or children, but there was a good variety of history, self-help, general interest, magazines, etc. There were even a number of CD and DVD booths. I ended up buying a small "tourism atlas" of Crimea, which is basically like a gazetteer with detailed segment-by-segment maps of the whole region, along with city maps for the main towns and a lot of good information about different spots around the peninsula. I also got a book on the geography of Ukraine meant mainly for students, and it looks like it has a lot of useful info. I'm interested in seeing the language that it uses to talk about Crimea, and what biases that might reveal. Oh, the other day I also bought some books at a bookstore downtown: One on the history of Crimea, an in-depth guide to all the various tourist sites and natural areas of Crimea, and a small booklet of poetry about Crimea. I've gone Crimea-crazy (That is pretty much the point of me being here, though)!
Gee, for not really doing much this week, I sure was able to write a lot. My water was shut off again today, which is extremely frustrating. Last time it didn't bother me too much since it happened right before I left for Kiev and by the time I got back it was back on. This time I'm stuck in the apartment without being able to simply wash my hands, flush the toilet, or do the dishes. I was able to cook dinner without water (the usual onions, pepper, garlic, potatoes, eggs, and cheese), but no way to do the dishes afterward. Since I was in Kiev last time, I really don't know how long to expect the water to be off. I hope it's back on by tomorrow, or else things will start getting tricky. I think I'm going to start filling empty bottles with water and leaving them under the sink so I'll have some in these situations, because I'm sure this is going to happen again. That's it for now. I'll let you know how my presentation goes.

-Austin

Я нарушил мое обещание

OK, I'v been really lazy since I got back to SImferopol, but I'm finally ready to write some about my week or so in Kiev. So, last Wednesday afternoon I got on a train and settled in for the 15 hour train ride. The ride was pretty uneventful. I rode platzkart (the lowest class) like I prefer, and I had the bed along the aisle, which I don't really mind as long as I get the lower bunk, cause I can't really get up into those cramped upper bunks. Thankfully nobody ever claimed the bed above me, but whenever we pulled into a town and let more people on I was always on the edge of my seat waiting to see if someone had purchased that spot, meaning I would be obliged to share a seat with them on the bottom. There was a what appeared to be a band going to Kyiv for a show or something, cause they had a ton of instruments and gear they kept loading on. I don't even know how they stored it all, but it seemed like such a crazy and cool idea to tour by passenger train. The guy one bed up from me had the worst smelling feet I had ever smelled, so I had to put my head at the other end to sleep.
We got into Kiev early Thursday morning, and I walked the 5 or so blocks (mostly uphill) to the hotel that Fulbright had booked for us (the email we had received that said the hotel was just "steps from the train station" was pretty misleading). After waiting around for our rooms to become available, I got cleaned up and ready for our first round of orientation stuff. We all met in a conference room in the hotel and had a couple different sessions talking about general things-to-do-now-that-we've-arrived stuff, and us students had a session with two Fulbrighters from last year who are still bumming around Kiev. They talked a lot about practical things for living in this part of the world, adjusting to the culture, blah blah blah, stuff I've already one through a number of times, so it wasn't really enlightening for me personally. Once our orientation was over I had a little time to kill before our reception later, so I walked down the street to find some quick food since I hadn't eaten all day. I had to walk surprisingly far before I found a little stand that sold these tasty hand-held pizza-type snacks (I later found out it's a chain of little stands found everywhere all over the city). I got slightly lost on my way back to the hotel because I took a different street back that ended up veering away from it, but I found it soon enough.
That night we had a fancy reception at the apartment of the Deputy Chief of Mission from the US Embassy, which included many other Embassy employees, Ukrainian Fulbrighters, and other important people. I think it was the first event I've ever been to where servers walk around with plates of hors d'oeuvres (it just took me forever to figure out how to spell that) and come around to refill your wine glass. Oh, I finally tried caviar for the first! They had deviled eggs topped with red caviar and a few other caviar snacks at the main food table as well. My verdict: actually pretty good, or at least way better than I expected. I got to talk to some of the Fulbrighters I hadn't met or really gotten to know yet, and met some other interesting people as well. I met a Ukrainian guy named Dennis who just got back from his Fulbright project as an aide to a US congressman (some freshman congressman from Minnesota), and we had a good conversation. I also met some employees from the Embassy who are about my age, and after the reception was over a small group of us went over to one employee's apartment to have some drinks and get ready to go out to a bar. This group included fellow Fulbrighter and Pacific Northwesterner Tye, Darrin who I mentioned before, a guy named Alex (Sasha), who's American and a current Russia Fulbrighter hanging around Kiev waiting for a Russian visa, two girls who work at the Embassy (the girl whose apartment we went to was named Anaida, but I forget the other's name), and one Fulbright scholar named Johanen, who's a professor at Northwestern and is in Kiev teaching Jewish studies (he was kind of the odd one out in this group). Apparently the Embassy takes good care if it's employees, because Anaida was given this huge amazing apartment with a big screen TV. We sat around a drank some fancy whiskey while Johanen went off on a number of different academic topics which were very interesting, but somehow distracting for the tone of the evening. A couple more Americans showed up later and I began to comprehend the vast network of Americans and Westerners in Kiev (at least certainly vast compared to Simferopol) as many began to talk about all their mutual friends and connections within the city.I had a nice time, but when everyone got ready to head to some bar I decided to head back to the hotel, since I was tired and hadn't gotten a good night's sleep on the train the night before, plus the hotel was right around the corner.
The next day we all met in the hotel lobby (by the way, in the lobby there were a bunch of signed pictures of local "celebrities" who had visited the hotel, almost all of whom I'd never heard of, but among all the B-Listers was Ukrainian President Yushchenko, standing right there in the same lobby!) and headed to a branch of the US Embassy for more orientation. We had a security briefing, a run down of the poilitical and economic situation in Ukraine, and some other talks about various resources available to us. At this session I finally met the Fulbright Scholar who is also in SImferopol, named Steven. He seemed like a really nice guy, and is here with his entire family including three small kids! He said he'd have me over for dinner sometime, and apparently he's got some apartment. The most interesting part of this session was a discussion on the recent Georgian conflict with two Ukrainian Political Science professors. They had a lot of interesting things to say about it and the impact on Ukraine, a lot of which I knew already and agreed with, but they did give me some new ideas about how to guide my research. I got both of their cards in case I need to get in touch with them to get some information of resources or research materials or something like that.
That was the final part of our orientation, and afterwards we were invited back to the Fulbright office where there was photography show opening for an American and a Ukrainian photographer. Oh, on the way out of the Embassy branch some of us got on an elevator with one more person than the posted maximum number, and got stuck in the elevator for about five minutes! I actually saved us by (eventually) just trying to push the door open, and it worked. We were actually already on the first floor, but the door just wouldn't open on it's own. The security guy bitched at us for exceeding the limit, but we just walked away. We took the metro to the office and when we got there it was already full of what appeared to be a bunch of teenagers, so I wasn't really sure what kind of event it was supposed to be. I had a bit to drink, looked at some of the cool photographs, and then decided to leave pretty quickly because it was kind of a weird scene, plus it was super hot and uncomfortable in that room. I headed back to the hotel and waited to hear from Tye, who was talking to people about getting together that night, but when he called he said everyone was pretty tired and were just going to stay in, so I had a nice quite evening at the hotel watching CNN international as the House voted on the bailout bill.
With the orientation over, the next day was essentially free, but our coordinator Myron was leading whoever was interested to the weekly antiques fair on the other side of the river, and I decided to check it out. A small group of us took the metro, and along the way I got to talk to fellow Fulbrighter Sarah, who's in the Western Ukrainian city of Lviv, where i really need to get to sometime soon. The fair was pretty cool, with people selling old books, art, weapons, pins, knick knacks, and everything in between. It did seem more like a place for serious collectors more than casual souvenir shoppers, but I did end up getting a couple of things. I bought a little ceramic figurine of a women holding a drum and wearing a komsomol hat for my mom, because she always asks me to get kitschy figurines from this part of the world. It was a little expensive, but way cheaper than some of the other figurines they had for sale. I also bought a little pin with the Skoda logo that I'll probably end up giving to Lily because of our mutual obsession with that logo. On of the scholars bought a really cool painting, and dropped some pretty big bucks on it, but if I had a lot of disposable income I probably would have bought it too.
After the fair most of us headed to a pub called the Golden Gate where Democrats Abroad was sponsoring a showing of the previous night's vice presidential debate. A lot of Americans had turned out, certainly most of them Democrats. Myron (our coordinator) was sitting next to me and kept saying angry things under his breathe after everything Palin said. I knew I liked him when I met him. I had a tasty sandwich and a beer, and even though they took forever to arrive, I had a nice time watching and getting angry with everyone else. Inside the pub, I noticed two guys wearing Oregon Ducks T-shirts, so I had to o say hello after the debate. They were super excited to meet a fellow Duck / Oregonian, though seemed a bit disappointed when they learned I don't follow the football team. In fact, they were going to be watching the UO - USC game on a computer at 3 AM that night, and invited me to come, but of course I wasn't into that. I did talk to them a while, and learned that they had graduated quite a while ago (2000), and that they are both former Ukraine Peace Corp volunteers. One of them now works for a German law firm in Kiev, while the other just returned to start teaching English. They seemed like nice guys, but they and their friends seemed like a bunch of crazy party animals, so I'm not sure how much I'd enjoy hanging out with them. I did et one of their numbers, so maybe I'll meet up with them sometime when I'm in Kiev.
I had to get out of the hotel that day, but luckily Tye had just been allowed to move into his new apartment on the same day, eliminating the need for me to stay at the supposedly terrible hostel that he had been staying at for a little while. I got my stuff from the hotel and met him at the metro station down the street from his new place. His apartment is huge and quite nice, and my entire apartment could have fit into his living room, but he's paying over twice as much as I am for mine. All things considered, though, for a place that big with such a good location in Kiev (really close to the center), he's actually getting a pretty sweet deal, I think. So, after settling in at his place, his friend / last year Fulbrighter Rachel came over to take us to her friend's apartment / her temporary apartment to hang out with a group of her local friends. There were three Ukrainian girls (Julia, Julia, and Olga), and a guy (Kostya), but he left pretty early and was later replaced by Olga's brother. The apartment was really nice and felt almost exactly like a newer American apartment (except of course for the outlets). We spoke mainly in Russian for a while, but when it became apparent that us Americans were having a little difficulty keeping up in the conversations, everyone switched to English and it remained the default language of the evening. All the girls spoke pretty impeccable English, actually, so I don't know why we didn't just start with it. Olga chain smoked the whole time, and we all sipped wine and talked about all kinds of different things around the kitchen table while listening mostly to Amy Winehouse on repeat. This girl Rachel seemed so familiar to me the whole time, like I know I had met her somewhere, but I'm sure I haven't since she went to Yale. I figured out eventually that she really reminded me of my friend Autumn back in Eugene, but it still felt like I had met her personally as well. It was the weirdest thing. By the time Tye and I had to head back it was too late to take the metro, so we shared a cab with one of the Julias and then stayed up a bit watching Flight of the Concords on Tye's computer.
The next day (Sunday, I think) Tye and I decided to do a little sight seeing around the city. First off, we wanted to get some breakfast at what the Lonely Planet Ukraine Guide says is the best blini stand in the Kiev, but when we got there it was closed and being worked on or something. Disappointed, we checked the book for another restaurant in the area, and settled on one that is supposed to be the city's best Ukrainian restaurant. It was pretty much lunch time by then, so we were open to thins besides breakfast food, The restaurant was called Pervak, and it was quite tasty indeed. We both had amazing sausage and vareniki (like mini pirogies). After lunch we headed to the central part of town to see some of the main tourist attractions. We started at the Zoloti Vorota ("Golden Gate," what the pub is named after), which was the original gate to medieval Kiev way back when it was a walled city. It's been fixed up a bunch, but it is pretty cool still. We went to the top and had a pretty nice view of some of the surrounding area. Afterwards we headed down the street to two of Kiev's main cathedrals: St. Sophia's and St. Michael's. They both face each other separated by two squares and a short stretch of road. St. Sophia's was the bigger of the two, and had a huge bell tower next to it as well. At St. Sophia's you have to pay both to get onto the grounds and to go inside the cathedral, and to avoid paying the much higher standard adult fare, Tye lent me his old Willamette student ID to get the student price, while he used an ID from the Monterey Institute. They didn't know what the hell any of it was, so it worked just fine. I didn't bring my old UO ID with me to Ukraine, but I do have my old student ID from St. Petersburg that is much more identifiable here, so maybe it will work for such things in the future. Inside was pretty spectacular, as these cathedrals usually are. You should go see some sometime. We finished up at St. Sophia's and headed for St. Michael's, which had an awesome purplish-blue color (I think you call it periwinkle, but I'm not sure). This was actually an operating cathedral, so there were people inside lighting candles and saying prayers.One candle had drooped over and was dripping onto the floor, but somehow the drops were still lit for a second as the fell, so it looked like it was dripping fire and was really mesmerizing. Tye and I stared at it until the wick shriveled up and it stopped dripping. Outside we saw an Orthodox priest performing a blessing ritual on a car as it's owners watched. Tye and I got a kick of watching and taking pictures of it.
From St. Michael's we headed down to Maidan Nezalezhnosti (Independence Square), the heart of Kiev. People were out everywhere enjoying their weekend, and we just hung out there for a while watching people skateboard, pose for pictures, etc. This is where the huge protests were during the Orange Revolution a few years back. From there we headed back to Tye's place (which is only about 3 blocks away!) and decided where we'd like to get some dinner. I suggested Georgian food, so we found a place in the book and headed out. The restaurant was quite expensive (most Georgian places are, I find), but it was quite delicious, as expected. This is probably a good point to mention that Tye and I, along with Sasha the Russian-bound Fulbrighter, have decided to take a quick trip to Georgia over Halloween weekend! We already bought our tickets, and it looks like we'll be spending about 4 days in and around Tbilisi. I really wanted to do a bigger Caucasus trip that would include Azerbaijan and Armenia, as well as the rest of Georgia, but Tye was really serious about going and I thought it would be a good idea to go this time with some friends. I'm still planning on taking that bigger trip before I get back to the states, though. I'm really excited about this trip, especially after that delicious Georgian meal. I think the plan is to just gorge ourselves on food and wine for four days while seeing as much of the city as we can. Of course, you'll get to hear all about that trip in about a month. After dinner we headed back to the apartment and watched 30 Rock on Tye's computer for a bit before hitting the hay.
On Monday, Tye had to get back to work (he's been teaching English), so I spent most of the day exploring on my own. I had breakfast at a pastry shop up the street from the apartment, and headed out the the Kievo-Pecherska Lavra (a monastery with caves), which is Kiev's biggest tourist attraction. This was Monday of course, so it really wasn't too crowded. I hear it gets crazy on the weekend. The upper part of the monastery had a few really nice cathedrals, one of which was only recently rebuilt after it had been destroyed in WWII. A big chunk of the original is displayed in front of it. There are also apparently some great museums there, but I somehow missed out on them (Tye seemed really disappointed when he heard that), so I'll have to see them next time. A path from the upper part leads to the lower Lavra, where all the Monks live and practice their faith. The big attraction here is the underground caves where mummified monks are on display for worshippers to visit (you can't really see them, they're wrapped in holy robes and encased in glass). You enter the caves through one church and come out the other. It was pretty cool but I was really expecting something more like the catacombs I saw at the monastery in Pechory in Russia, near the Estonian border. This place hardly felt like a cave, since all the walls were plastered over. It was pretty small down there, since most of it is supposedly off limits to those who aren't there to pray (though Tye got back there when he went, so I'm not sure). It was still interesting to see all the people kissing the mummy cases and saying prayers. On my way to the lower exit of the Lavra, I stopped at a tiny chapel where people where drinking washing themselves with the hold water coming from its spigot. Some guy in a track suite came up to me and started speaking to me quite quickly about it, and though I didn't comprehend everything he must have said, I did get that he was telling me to try drinking the water. So I tried it, and it was fine, but he kept looking at me like he expected something else from me, like I was supposed to give him some money for him having suggested I try the water. I told him I couldn't help him, and then he proceeded to tell me what I now believe was supposed to be some kind of curse. He said in an hour I would get sick, and after a year... I didn't really catch what he said would happen, but I assumed it was death. I missed a lot of what he said, but seeing as though he was just some guy in a track suite, I figured it was just some stupid ploy to pray on people at this holy site and try to get some money out of them, so I just walked off. An hour later I felt fine, I'm happy to say.
From the Lavra I walked to the nearest metro station, and considered riding out to the Hydropark (an island in the middle of the Dnipro River in Kiev that serves as the city's big park), but I decided instead to head down to the Maidan again, get some lunch, and explore in that area some more. I ended up eating at McDonald's near the square, just because it was so convenient and McDonald's in other countries are always kind of fun and don't make me feel too guilty. Afterwards I walked around the area, found the creepy "Chimera House" with weird gargoyles all over it, and walked around the area of the Bessarabian Bazaar. I found a bookstore and bought a Russian-Ukrainian dictionary, along with a couple maps cause that's what I'm into. I was waiting around to hear from Tye once he finished all of his stuff for the day, and eventually we met up back at his apartment. He bought some pelmeni and tomato sauce, so we ate that night, and then spent a while exchanging music and TV show files (I've since been watching a ton of 30 Rock). We were both pretty tired and called it an early night.
The next morning was my final morning in Kiev, as my train left around 6:00 that evening. Tye had to work again, and I had vague plans to go to this street with lots of vendors, but I was feeling pretty lazy, and instead just went down to the Fulbright office to get reimbursed for my train ticket back to SImferopol. I had to meet Tye around 2:00 back at his apartment to give him his key back, then just headed to the train station with all my stuff I had to wait around for a couple hours, so I just sat and stared in one of the sitting halls. When I had bought my ticket back to SImferopol, all the platzkart tickets were already gone. so I had to go with the next class up, kupe. This is where there are four beds to a single, closed off compartment, and usually I prefer platzkart when I travel alone just because you aren't stuck in a small room with 3 strangers for the whole ride, plus it's quite a bit cheaper (at least Fulbright was paying for this ride). This ride in kupe actually turned out to be a pretty positive experience, though. Just before the train took off, three young guys showed up in my heretofore empty compartment. They all had shaved heads, and my first though was one of dread as I thought I would be sharing the ride with a bunch of skinheads, but then one of them soon told me that they were soldiers. I found out a bit later that they had in fact all just gotten out of the army that day, and were each heading home. There was Sasha from Dnipropetrovsk, Igor from Zaporizhzhya. and Dima from Sevastopol (in Crimea). Dima spoke a little bit of English, and seemed to enjoy practicing it with me. They were all pretty friendly, and just mostly seemed really relieved and a bit free-spirited, as I imagine I would feel after just getting out of the army. Sasha hooked his cell phone up to some portable speakers, and they all started singing along to his collection of pop, folk, and rock songs. When I asked them who the singer of one of the songs was, they said they didn't know. I pictured them having only these songs to listen to for the last year while they were in the army, and sharing a bond over them without knowing anything about the singer. They started getting beers and snacks from the providnist (head of the train car), and soon started bringing some back for me. I had a great time drinking with them, asking them questions about army life and their opinions about Ukraine and Crimea, and grooving on their music. I even to to sing along with them on one song, cause they had some Kino on the phone. I was beginning to worry that they were going to stay up drinking and laughing all night and that I wouldn't be able to get to sleep, but they tuckered out right around when I was beginning to, so we all got some decent rest. I didn't sleep a whole lot though, unfortunately, just because I wasn't all that comfortable on my little bed. The stops in Dnipropetrovsk and Zaporizhzhya happened in the middle of the night, so before each stop one of the guys got up to get all dressed up in their full military regalia so they could make their family proud when they got of of the train. Something about that touched me. Dima got off with me in Simferopol and then caught a bus the rest of the way to Sevastopol. I took a taxi back to my apartment just so I wouldn't have to deal with taking my bags on a marshrutka.
So, the last few days since I got back have been really lazy. I used up the rest of my initial internet traffic allotment, and went down to the office to start my limitless monthly plan. It's nice to be able to use the internet now without worrying about the traffic limit, though the speed is a bit slower than I would like. I checked out this supposedly Armenian restaurant in Gagarin Park yesterday, and found it to be pretty darn expensive and not all that terrific, though they did have surprisingly decent lagman.I walked around a bit too, and finally wandered through the children's park. I really need to go back there with a camera, because there are all kinds of weird ride and attractions for kids there. The coolest part, though, is the big cement letters that spell out "children's park" in Russian at the park's entrance. I'll put a picture of it up sometime, you'll see how cool it is. There was also a small zoo, but I thought it would be too depressing to go in, but also weird for a guy like me alone in a zoo in a children's park. Today I had lunch at a little cafe up the street, where I tried Chicken Kiev for the first time, then did some grocery shopping in the adjacent market. I'm back on the potato/onion/pepper/cheese scramble diet for the next few days, though I'm spicing it up with some garlic this time. Mainly I've just been cruising the internet and watching 30 Rock for most of the time these past few days, but next week I'm going to meet with some people at the university and start getting back on track with the research stuff. I've decided tomorrow I'm finally going to head down to the beach (probably Yalta, just because it's the easiest part to get to). I think we're all caught up now. I know I broke my promise about huge posts like this, but I guess I'm just that type of blogger. See you next time!


-Austin

p.s. Check out my flickr page. I uploaded some pictures from Simferopol and Kiev.